As I careen around a curve and begin a long descent to the harbour, my jaw drops. Lindos appears, stunning enough in its maze of whiteness, but near magical back dropped by an acropolis high atop a sea-flanked mountain.
My Greek history professor would be disappointed. His colorful recants of Spartan battles, told between dizzying chapters of Herodotus’ The Histories, included locations to see “when you go to Greece,” never “if you go to Greece.” He assumed anyone living in a democratic country must visit the country of the first known democracy.
Without exaggerating for effect—like Herodotus—I was focused less on notable battlefields than on freewheeling like a kid on a bike down a big hill. Wheeee!
Things We Were Grateful For.
At 80 km long by 38 km wide, Rhodes is the perfect size to bike around. I was here with two longtime friends, Joyce, and her husband, Peter, to follow a six day self guided itinerary. Accommodations and luggage were taken care of. Stops, whether suggested or spontaneous, were always interesting, such as the Castle of Kritinia, with views out to Alimia and Halki, islands in a sea hundreds of feet below, or an gnarled olive tree, found roadside.
Mostly, the biking route kept us off busy roads, and instead, had us humming along as graceful as performers in Zorba the Greek. We flew past sapphire seas, either Aegean or Mediterranean, sped high up into cool pine forests, or dawdled through villages and citrus laden orchards in the quiet interior.
Old is Gold
To ancient Greeks, Rhodes was “more beautiful than the sun.” Our view this warm September day out of Kalavarda shows blue Aegean waves, rollicking up against black rocks as big as stoves. At our backs, four shaggy goats watch us from a tawny ledge. Later, we breeze into the spectacular palm and minaret lined Old City of Rhodes, another jaw dropping descent.
Rhodes has a centuries long history, from the Phoenicians here before the Trojan War to the Knights of St. John to the Italians who left in 1945. This island now rests as part of the Dodecanese, filled with monuments resulting from those influences. One such gem is the Old City, a walled medieval city dating back 2000 years. A hotel stay here made it easy to explore the narrow lanes, synagogues, and Arabic style markets of this UNESCO World Heritage Site—amid restaurants, shops and stone homes where people still live.
Cycling for Dolmas
“You may go no further,” said a man, imposing in khaki, when we bumbled into a shooting drill. Turns out it is easy to pedal through sand, when inspired.
We were lost only once thanks to clear directions. And, sights were a good mix of ancient and modern, such as Kallithea Spa, whose springs were known by Hippocrates.
Each day, we rode to the door of that night’s accommodation, always a simply furnished, but bougainvillea bedecked surprise. We ate at places with a few outdoor tables rich with local banter. At one hidden place, Nikos, and his wife, Maria, when asked to “offer us whatever is cooking” served us a meze of Greek salad, a distinctive musaka, roast cauliflower, all accompanied by the holy liquid of Dionysus. Total bill: $20
At one patio near Faliraki, Alexi pulled leaves from fronds overhead and introduced us to his elderly parents rolling dolmas—grape leaf wrapped rice—in their kitchen. Innkeeper, Rosa, filled our hands with fresh walnuts and figs from her garden.
Wh-eeee! E Bikes
When Peter suggested we book e-bikes, my guffaws turned to curiosity, and, later, after our first long hill, to fist pumping approval. E-bikes made it easy to cycle together, each choosing our preferred level of power. Any effort required to pedal is set by a power shifter on our handlebars. Each night, we unplugged a book sized battery from our bike and recharged it in a room outlet to be ready for the next 35 km day.
Travel Slowly
I didn’t see Delphi or the Acropolis in Athens. But, I sauntered with pals through quiet ruins devoid of others, chatted with Rhodians, and felt the breeze on long pine-scented descents. I prefer slower travel and love that connection with the outdoors and the people that biking pace delivers. For me, biking around Rhodes will remain my little Iliad for a long time.
Cathy Senecal has travelled to every continent, covering culture, outdoor adventure and wildlife experiences.